Tis the Seasoning
by Judi Sandall
judi.sandall@chefschoolreview.com
Chef School Review Columnist
Salt may not be an exotic culinary spice like chervil or saffron, but every chef worth his salt knows that this humble seasoning is mighty indeed.
Who would think that lowly table salt could have such a profound presence not only in the culinary world, but in religion, commerce, literature, and folklore as well. During the Civil War, the North and South even fought over possession of Virginia salt production fields, which were considered vital to the war effort.
More than a Culinary Condiment
Humans cannot survive without salt, but salt is also used in paper manufacturing and to set dyes in textiles and many people ‘take things with a grain of salt.’ A symbol of good luck in India, salt is also used as a purifying agent by many religions worldwide. A Chinese pharmacological treatise, written in 2007 BC, references more than 40 types of salt, and in ancient Rome and Greece salt was widely used as currency.
Culinary Salt Magic
In addition to its many non-culinary uses, salt has an equal number of diverse culinary uses. It is the most basic culinary seasoning, able to elicit all of the basic human tastes—bitter, salty, sour, savory, and sweet. Salt seems to have almost magical culinary powers because it can:
- Reduce food bitterness and acidity
- Enhance the flavor of citrus, melons, and tomatoes
- Make boiled eggs easier to peel, when you add it to the boiling water
- Increase the volume of whipped cream or egg whites
- Be used to preserve meat
And, when a pastry chef doesn’t add salt to bread dough, the bread comes out coarser in texture and tastes extremely bland.
Sea Salt or Kosher Salt
As a chef, you will probably use salt in more culinary dishes than almost any other seasoning. You might use the earthy and delicate flavors of sea salt—with varieties like French fleur de sel or Hawaiian red or Indian black or Korean bamboo—to enhance lighter culinary dishes. As a chef, you’ll find, however, that you need a sturdier salt like kosher salt to stand up to dishes that are more robust.
Sources
Pizza Today
Cargill Salt
Salt Institute
About the Author
Judi Sandall is a technical writer, regular Chef School Review columnist, and a graduate of the State University of New York.
Posted on July 14, 2006 at 12:13 PM
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