Salt may not be an exotic culinary spice like chervil or saffron, but every chef worth his salt knows that this humble seasoning is mighty indeed.
Who would think that lowly table salt could have such a profound presence not only in the culinary world, but in religion, commerce, literature, and folklore as well. During the Civil War, the North and South even fought over possession of Virginia salt production fields, which were considered vital to the war effort.
Humans cannot survive without salt, but salt is also used in paper manufacturing and to set dyes in textiles and many people ‘take things with a grain of salt.’ A symbol of good luck in India, salt is also used as a purifying agent by many religions worldwide. A Chinese pharmacological treatise, written in 2007 BC, references more than 40 types of salt, and in ancient Rome and Greece salt was widely used as currency.
In addition to its many non-culinary uses, salt has an equal number of diverse culinary uses. It is the most basic culinary seasoning, able to elicit all of the basic human tastes—bitter, salty, sour, savory, and sweet. Salt seems to have almost magical culinary powers because it can:
And, when a pastry chef doesn’t add salt to bread dough, the bread comes out coarser in texture and tastes extremely bland.
As a chef, you will probably use salt in more culinary dishes than almost any other seasoning. You might use the earthy and delicate flavors of sea salt—with varieties like French fleur de sel or Hawaiian red or Indian black or Korean bamboo—to enhance lighter culinary dishes. As a chef, you’ll find, however, that you need a sturdier salt like kosher salt to stand up to dishes that are more robust.
Pizza Today
Cargill Salt
Salt Institute
Judi Sandall is a technical writer, regular Chef School Review columnist, and a graduate of the State University of New York.